Feast first @ Shakahari, Mariott

When food fit for the Nawabs calls, you give in and answer it with a bite, says Sandhya Ramachandran as she feasts on Awadhi cuisine.

Ghazals drifting from the restaurant mentally paint a picture of regal interiors, heavily chikankari-ed drapes, hookahs strewn, and a mahaul all set for an evening of wine and dine.
Then you realize you’re in the dry state – Gujarat, as you step into a standardMarriott-interior of stone slabs, large horizontal wooden beams and glass accents. At Shakahari, Courtyard by Marriott -Ahmedabad’s serving of Hyderabadi and Awadhi cuisine, the food brings legends alive and transports you to the land of aromatic spices and robust meats. As song after song continued to be rendered from an elevated manch by two very enthusiastic performers, the starters arrived.
IMG_3488The Akhrot ke seekh (Rs 400) was an interesting dish. The walnut stuffing was rich, creamy and the coriander accents were refreshing. The Paneer Shahjahani tikka (Rs 400)  contained peanuts in the sauce that combined beautifully with soft sweet prunes. The Sarson ke phool (Rs 400) – tender broccoli marinated in mustard and cooked in a tandoor with cheese and nuts, surprisingly won plenty of favour with us.
IMG_3490The winner of the starters pack however was the Kachcha kela kali mirch (Rs 350). A delightful combination of raw bananas tossed with peppercorns and cherry tomatoes and gently spiced with cinnamon, it makes for a spicy and aromatic start to the meal ahead.
The breadbasket was a carb-lovers paradise. The innovative Chilli olive naan (Rs 100), the lachcha paratha (Rs 100) was aromatic and the layers simply melted in your mouth. The Nawabi favourite – Warqi paratha (Rs 125) was thick, soft and perfect to mop up the curries ordered. The Masala kulcha (Rs 125) and Plain roti (Rs 100) – both simple versions of the leavened flatbread rounded of the offerings of the breadbasket.
IMG_3511To accompany the various versions of roti,we began with the Paneer hara pyaaz (Rs 400). We laud the chef’s talent at balancing the crispbold raw onions while sacrificing their potent pungency in this dish.
The Martabaan Chhole (Rs 375), one of the more popular dishes of Hyderabadi cuisine, has chick peas marinated in tea and tossed with twenty-six differentmasalas. Although that sounds like a whole lot of spices to take in at once, the taste surprisingly was very wholesome and homemade. The Subz-e-Shakahari (Rs 400) – the signature dish that married Nawabi cuisine with vegetables from across the world has asparagus, broccoli, cherry tomatoes and water chestnuts in brown gravy – a surprisingly sublime fusion!
The Tarkari Biryani (Rs 375) enticed us into digging in, despite a full stomach. Cooked in the dum style, the spices blended with the rice and seduced the tongue into slavery. Combine the creamy blended Dal shakahari (Rs 375) with this and you just found your perfect meal. The Peas pulao (Rs 250) had sweet swollen peas sprinkled in fragrant rice served with the special Raita (Rs 125) – a yoghurt-based condiment.
IMG_3512Although we were overwhelmed with the royal spread, we caved in to our sweet cravings and sampled the dessert platter. Every slurp of the Gulab ki kheer (Rs 300) was made memorable by the perfectly sweet marriage of the condensed milk and the scent of rose petals.
The Dry fruits halwa (Rs 300) – a blend of nuts, semolina and ghee, this one was a simple yet delicious sweet treat. The Zauk e Shahi (Rs 300) had mini Gulab jamuns soaked in lachhedar rabdi - full fat milk, which is thickened with sugar and flavoured with cardamom and dry fruits – was a straight shot to dessert heaven. We credit the chef for resisting the temptation to make this one super sweet.
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It’s an enlightening realization at the end of a meal, that goades you into understanding that while democracy may have pushed the Nawabs to the backseat, but their food can still hold its own even today. Shakahari is a must visit for every foodie who loves a rich feast. Aur khaane ke saat, kuch shaayri bhi ho jaaye!
Must try: Akrot ke seekh, Sabz-e-Shakahari, Gulab ki Kheer
Meal for two: Rs 2200+ taxes


Originally appeared here

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